Most automobiles use a battery to operate electrical components when the engine is not running and to start the engine. After the engine is started the electrical components and systems operate using power from the charging system or alternator. Therefore, if you disconnect a battery cable from an automobile while the engine is running, the engine and electrical systems will continue to operate.

Harley-Davidson’s operate completely off of the battery and the charging system simply replaces the voltage at the battery as it is used. If you disconnect a battery cable while a Harley is running – everything stops!

For a quick check to see if your charging system is working correctly, simply connect a volt meter to the positive and negative posts on the battery. With the engine running at 2000RPM you should read more than 14 VDC and not more than 14.7 VDC.

In General, a Harley-Davidson’s charging system is made up of only three components (not counting wires). The Stator, Regulator/Rectifier and the Battery.

Stator
Several windings of copper wire coiled around an iron core mounted to the engine case (left side) with a magnetic ‘Rotor’ splined to the sprocket shaft. The plug exits at the left front of the engine case.

Test the stator for continuity, check to be sure it’s not grounded, test A/C voltage and amperage output. Inspect the rotor for signs of rubbing on the engine case or stator wiring and for any loose, cracked or broken magnets. When replacing the stator, the four mounting bolts should always be replaced. If that is not possible be sure to clean and loctite the four bolts holding it to the engine case.

Regulator
The regulator is a solid state unit (mid 1970s and later) with cooling fins on the top. It is usually mounted near the front of the frame or engine.

The regulator is grounded to the frame or engine, plugged in to the stator plug at the left front of the engine case with a long wire to the Main fuse or the battery.

There is no true way of testing the regulator other than replacement. Plugging or unplugging the regulator while the motor is running can cause an electrical spike and short out the regulator. By testing for proper voltage at the battery, and then testing for proper voltage coming from the stator, you can determine the general condition of the regulator by the process of elimination.

Regulators are easy to damage. Just a little too much amperage and that’s all she wrote.

Harley-Davidson AGM (Absorption Glass Mat) Battery
Sealed battery technology was originally developed in 1985 for military aircraft where power, weight, safety, and reliability were paramount considerations.

AGM battery technology has continued to develop and offer improvements over other sealed battery technologies. AGM technology has become the next step in the evolution of both starting and deep cycle sealed batteries for motorcycle, marine, RV, and aviation applications. This “next generation” technology delivers increased safety, performance, and service life over all other existing sealed battery types, including gel technology.

In AGM sealed batteries, the acid is absorbed between the plates and immobilized by a very fine fiberglass mat. No silica gel is necessary. This glass mat absorbs and immobilizes the acid while still keeping the acid available to the plates. This allows a fast reaction between acid and plate material.
The AGM battery has an extremely low internal electrical resistance. This, combined with faster acid migration, allows the AGM batteries to deliver and absorb higher rates of amperage than other sealed batteries during discharging and charging. In addition, AGM technology batteries can be charged at normal lead-acid regulated charging voltages, therefore, it is not necessary to recalibrate charging systems or purchase special chargers.

A battery will most often fail in three different ways, won’t take a charge, won’t hold a charge, and won’t release the charge under load (lights and electrical work but it won’t crank the motor over).

Have the battery tested if you suspect it may be bad (insist on a “load test”).

Charging System Operation

Using the rotation of the engine, the magnetic stator rotor rotates around the stator windings turning magnetism into AC voltage. Electrons flow to the regulator/rectifier which converts the AC voltage to DC voltage and regulates it to approximately 14.5vdc, routing the excess voltage to ground. The 14.5vdc is routed to the battery (usually by way of the main breaker), recharging the battery.

Charging System Tips

Never “jump” a motorcycle that has a low or dead battery. Motorcycle batteries should be charged at a 2 amp per hour or “trickle charge” rate.

Never jump a bike battery from an automobile or anything with a higher amperage than your bike. Never charge the battery in the bike at any greater rate than 2 amp/hrs (you could damage the regulator).

Remember that this is not an automotive system and it does not work the same as automotive systems, if you disconnect the battery the engine will not stay running.

Often when your regulator goes bad, the stator cannot release it’s power and will damage itself. The catch 22 is that often if you install a good regulator to a stator that has gone bad, the malfunctioning stator may fry the new regulator and if you install a new stator with a bad regulator, again it’s possible to damage the new stator.

Harley-Davidson made great improvements to the stators in their bikes in 2008. Although a newer stator may still go bad, it is not uncommon to find stators going bad in the years prior to 2008. Fortunately, there are a lot of excellent aftermarket motorcycle parts, including stators and regulators that meet and even exceed manufacturer’s requirements. Companies like Accel have excellent replacement stators.

Another common problem that may also lead to the replacement of your Harley-Davidson Stator is a damaged or leaking stator plug.

The stator plug is used where the wires from the stator pass through the left inner case to the regulator. Once this plug becomes worn or damaged, there is little you can do to prevent the leaking of your oil through the hole. The recommended repair is once again the replacement of your stator, either with a quality OEM motorcycle stator, or an aftermarket stator.

You can find quality OEM motorcycle parts and aftermarket motorcycle replacement parts for your Harley-Davidson at https://www.cycle-parts.com at prices you can afford. And although we have been discussing Harley-Davidson charging systems, you will find that most motorcycle charging systems are the same. Look for quality Honda motorcycle parts, Kawasaki motorcycle parts, Suzuki motorcycle parts, and Yamaha motorcycle parts as well. Cycle-parts.com can provide you with all the parts you will need to keep your motorcycle charging system in full operation.

There are a number of videos on you-tube that show you step by step how to replace your Harley-Davidson stator. Also, look for additional articles in Panman’s Garage at http://www.hdopenroad.com on maintaining your Harley-Davidson.

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If you have found like many of our friends that nothing causes the loss of control on our bikes faster than locking the brakes, you need to look into the TCB Brake System. And how can you go wrong with a 100% money back guarantee!

And now Mark informs me that he has started the process to become a registered Harley-Davidson part. This safety device could be a huge plus for Harley-Davidson Motor Co.

Here is the note I received:

TCB Brake System (Traction Control Braking)
tcbbrakesystems.com

I wish to thank all of you that have purchased TCB in the past, for you have provided me with an opportunity to become an Official Harley Davidson product! Although communications have just started a few weeks ago between ourselves and Harley-Davidson Motor Co, Inc., I feel confident I am doing the right thing (even if they ask for the exclusive rights as I am told they may).

Harley-Davidson owners have always been the majority of all my sales for the past 3 years all over the world and again I thank you. The process ahead appears to be somewhat complicated with a lot of paperwork, and not knowing when this will finally happen adds to the mix.

TCB Braking System is offering a special deal on new TCB Brake units.  I will be offering a special price through the month of July.

You must contact me directly (903) 569-2998 or send me an email directly for this special offer. This is a special offer not provided through other outlets or online.

If you are not familiar with TCB Braking Systems, take a look at these youtube videos:

How TCB Works; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZW9PJIAsFBI
Harley Davidson install; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwQaHqhr5Dw

Again, I would like to thank you for all your support, and look forward to meeting your needs with TCB Braking Systems.

Mark C. Lipski; Inventor & Owner
TCB Brake Systems, LLC
http://www.tcbbrakesystems.com
lipskimark@yahoo.com
903.569.2998
1277 E. US HWY 80; Mineola, TX 75773

Looks like I might be doing my Christmas shopping early! Mark has arranged for HD Open Road to install the TCB Braking System on an ’08 Ultra Classic. Stay tuned for a full report coming soon.

Coach

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Panman told me, “I want that feeling of my old chopper again when I ride. I can’t get that with my hands so far down below my shoulders. I have to go up!”

After researching the various manufacturers of bagger bars, Panman settled on Cyclesmiths. “Dude, they have the bars in black! I’m sold!” Yeah, real scientific. But hey, Cyclesmiths does make good bars, and they are local (Rancho Cucamonga).

First step, road trip. Yup, gotta make a run to Cyclesmiths and meet Ron. Ron gave us a quick tour, and showed us some of the work that they do. Besides handlebars, Cyclesmiths makes some cool banana boards that would do any softail proud. As well, they make rear footboard and matching brake pedal and rear frame trim. Air cleaner covers, mirrors, levers and billet bullets (just to name a few of the items) complete the look for a badass softail. But they are most known for their bars.

Panman’s ride is a 2008 Ultra Classic these days. Funny how he picked up my mantra, “I don’t need to go fast, I just want to go far.” Anyway, the 2008 is the first year of the “fly by wire” throttle. This requires a set of special notches in the bar where the throttle goes in. Naturally, we need a special bar. Go figure!

No problem. Ron told us about how Cyclesmiths tries to stay ahead of the game, and they were one of the first to come out with 13″ and 16″ bars for 2008 tour bikes.

Then he brought out the black 13″ bagger bars Panman was asking about. Wow, 13″ riser, wide base, contour bends, and 8 1/2″ pullback. The conversation came to a dead stop as Panman couldn’t wait to get out of the shop with the bars under his arm and get back to the garage. We thanked Ron, and quickly high tailed it for Pomona Harley to pick up a few parts.

OK, here is the parts list that you will need. The 2008 have the “fly by wire” system. Fortunately if you go 13″, the cable is long enough. Go any longer though, and you will need an extension. Fortunately, Barnett makes an extension (as do a few other specialty companies).

The control wires for both the right and left side controls will need to be extended. You can buy pre-made extensions, or just buy a roll of 18 gauge stranded wire (not speaker wire!). Just make sure you adequately mark everything. You don’t want to start you ride by pressing the right turn signal!

Panman recommends that you get a longer clutch cable. and of course you will need to get longer brake line cables and a new diverter. Braided looks good here. Last item, don’t forget the tranny gasket. You will need to take the tranny cover off to change out the clutch cable. Better grab some tranny fluid and brake fluid while you are at it. And don’t forget your exhaust gaskets.

Alright, a few tie wraps and some solder, heat shrink tubes (18 gauge), and we should be good to go.

A lot of myths about having to remove the ENTIRE fairing running around. This is patently not true! The project started by removing the out fairing. Don’t miss the two screws inside the forks. Unplug the front light, and find a safe place to lay this down.

Next, we removed the running light bar. Remove the four screws (2 on each side), and unplug and remove the bar. (By the way, I hope you have already unplugged the battery. If not, do it now!). You now have a great view of the wiring harness.

OK, here comes the part that blows the myth out of the water. On each side where the light bar was bolted on, is a steel frame under the plastic cover. In order to move the inner fairing, simple spread the steel frame enough to slide over the button  that it bolts to. Do one side at a time. Once you have spread the frame out a little to slide over the button, the inner fairing will just lay back, supported by the wiring harness, and expose the clamp that holds the handlebars.

Trace out and unplug the different harness that feed the handlebars. You will find a plug on each side of the wiring harness for control unit (turn signals, controls). Then locate and unplug the throttle control. OK, you are now ready to disconnect the controls, brake lines, clutch cable and remove the grips. Do not remove the throttle body just yet.

We are going to need to prep for the clutch cable as well. This process is straight forward. Remove the pipes to expose the tranny cover. remove the tranny cover and remove the clutch cable from the cover. Feed the new cable into the cover, replace the gasket, and reinstall the cover. Pretty basic. Get your torque specs from your service manual (you DO have a service manual, right?) Reinstall you pipes, remember to replace the exhaust gasket(s).

Remove several inches of the casing over the control wires (not the throttle body cable) at the base of the handlebars. You will need to mark each wire on each side of where you are going to cut it. (That’s right, you have to cut the plug off.)

Now it’s time to remove the handlebars. Unbolt the clam shell, that’s it. Once you have the handlebars removed, pull the throttle body out enough to expose the green plug and disconnect the throttle body wiring. Now pull the cable from the bar and set it aside. Remove the control cables and set them aside as well.

Disassembly complete, we are ready to assemble the harness on the new bars. First step, Panman recommends boring out the cable holes at the grips and at the base of the bar. The bars are big enough for the wires, but the holes are too small. File the holes to make them smooth, and lay out your control cables. You will probably want to remove some of the cable cover to make the job easier. Your choice.

First, pull the throttle body into the bar. You will need to work the green connector plug to the wiring hole in the bar to connect the plugs. Use needle nose pliers for this. Pretty easy, just be patient. If you purchased the extension, then just pull it to the through, plug it in, and pull it back.

Pull the control cables into the bars, and set them up to solder your extensions on. Once the extensions are soldered on, solder the plug ends on. Make sure that you have the heat shrink tubes in place to cover the soldered areas. This will not only prevent shorts, but act as a strain relief in the event that the wires are pulled at.

With the wiring completed, we are ready to bolt the bar in place. Once bolted, we moved the inner fairing back up to check the positioning of the bars. That done, lower the inner fairing again and proceed to plug everything back in.

Just about there. Once the bars are properly tightened into place, we reinstalled the inner fairing, connected the plugs, an reinstalled the control boxes and grips onto the bars. New brake lines and diverter, bleed the lines, and attach the clutch cable. Now reinstall the running light bar, and reconnect the battery.

OK, time to test out all of the controls. We want to make sure that we didn’t cross any wires, or miss a solder. Everything works, good. Now reinstall the outer fairing.

Total job, about 5 hours. Soldering the wires seems to take the longest. Take your time. You don’t want to rush things here.

And the end result? Wow. No more burning shoulders on long rides. A cool look, and Panman has his chopper feel back. You need to check into this for your ride.

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“Take it easy, Bro. Get your bike on a trailer and bring it over. We’ll have Panman take a look at it.”

When it arrived we were able to take a good look at what he was talking about. There sat his ’06 Ultra, looking like it was ready to go save for the tape covering the rear spark plug hole. “You sure it is stripped bad?” When he showed me the spark plug, there was no question. The threads of the spark plug were no longer visible, instead it was loaded with shiny magnesium alloy as the rear cylinder had welded itself to the spark plug.

There is a lesson to be learned from this. On the older engines, the cylinders were steel. These didn’t have the problems that we have now. The cylinders are now a magnesium alloy, and the spark plugs are still steel. When you introduce enough heat, you create a metallurgical event that causes the two different metal types to weld themselves together. For this reason, it is important that you back out and reseat your spark plugs every 5,000 miles. The use of an anti-seize compound is also a good idea.

OK, lesson learned. Time to get the bike undressed and pull the head. First we removed the tank and the exhaust system. Next we removed the air cleaner and horn bracket. You might also want to make sure that the battery is disconnected.

Next we unbolted the fuel injection ports from the heads. This allowed us good access to the rear cylinder. The top pan cover came off easily enough. One of the bolts wouldn’t clear the frame to be removed, but we were able to slide the cover back enough to clear the bolt.

The rocker assembly was next. Two of the main bolts lie under the assembly. Once the rocker assembly was removed, we were able to remove the push rods. The lower head pan bolts can be started with a hex key to bring them up were you can comfortably get a wrench on them. Once this pan is removed, all four of the head bolts can now be removed.

The total time for the head removal was a little less than two hours, and was really a smooth job. The head was then run to the machine shop to have a step helicoil installed. For around $50, we were ready to go.

Time to throw her back together. Key here is take your time. And use plenty of loctite! We first inspected the new gasket kit. Make sure to clean off all remnants of the old gaskets, and then we reversed the process and began reassembling the cylinder.

The engine had less than 30,000 miles, and the valves appeared to be in great shape. The piston and rings are in the lower cylinder and were never moved, so we were able to start bolting the head back in place.

The service manual provided the necessary torque and sequence information. The reassembly took us about another 3 hours. Really a very simple project.

Once bolted together and the tank reinstalled, the moment of truth came. We turned on the ignition and hit the starter… damn, it started faster than mine! We listened for any vacuum sounds that would indicate a leak, and letit idle for a couple of minutes to warm up and rechecked it for any leaks. Everything looked great. Panman to the rescue again!

Words of wisdom, make sure that you back out and reset your spark plugs every 5,000 miles or so. This would have possibly prevented this from happening in the first place.

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